TULERIE

A Close Second To Meghan Markle's Baby Kicking

Violet Gross
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Meghan Markle’s baby kicking in front of a global audience on Monday evening may have gone viral but there is more to recognize about Monday night’s British Fashion Council Awards

The annual ceremony hosted at the iconic Royal Albert Hall recognizes business leaders and creatives in the global fashion industry. The event is the pinnacle of the BFC’s fundraising efforts that support the future creative talent within the industry.

To win an award is no small feat as the international judging panel is made up of over 2,000 key industry figures and let’s just say “great minds think alike” — because we agreed with all the selections! Brand of the year went to Alessandro Michele’s Gucci (shocker!), Kaia Gerber took Model of the Year, and Clare Waight Keller took womenswear designer of the year for her work at Givenchy. None of these choices were surprising but BFC’s choice to make sustainability  a star at this glamorous event was.

Vivienne Westwood was awarded the Swarovski Award for Positive Change for her activism towards climate-change. The founder of Parley for the Oceans collected the Special Recognition Award for Innovation for his pioneering work removing plastic from the sea (ummm remember, we told you about the Adidas partnership with them?).

And finally, a woman we look up to, Stella McCartney, was awarded the first ever Special Recognition Award For Innovation. Her commitment to sustainability and animal rights stands alone and she’s been a voice for change in the fashion world for almost two decades. It’s about damn time she was recognized for it. 

McCartney told Vogue,  “It’s extraordinary that I started this conversation a long time ago and now it’s in the room and people are engaged and people aren’t angry or dismissive. Now they’re actually OK to pay some attention to that”

In regards to McCartney’s innovative uses of materials like plastics reclaimed from the ocean or viscose from sustainable forests, the designer told Vogue, “I love that side of the industry. It’s the future of fashion – the fact that we can use less water, less energy, use our land, our resources and the planet’s resources in a more efficient way - I think it’s fascinating and I think it’s the only way forward.”

Congrats to all the winners, especially our girl Stella! We hope more designers will follow in her footsteps and steals this award from her next year!

Like Venmo, for the Earth

Violet Gross
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Did you know every quarter Reformation produces a Sustainability Report? Well they do and it’s like candy to us! Knowledge is power right! It’s a scary yet fascinating time for this industry and we are learning together about the detrimental impacts of fashion on our environment (except Stella McCartney and those 90 scientist who drafted the UN Report, they seem to have been well above the curve).

From our POV, Reformation’s entire ethos is creating a fashionable brand that is operating better than average and informing their customers why their is a need for better than average. In this report they are upfront about the fact they don’t have control over everything and their is a host of influential information they’re still not privy to but they remain focused on positively impacting the process where they can. Reformation's smaller carbon footprint comes from focusing on material waste, something they have control over, through product manufacturing and and packaging.

So what practices make Reformation different?

-Lower-impact fabrics like vintage, deadstock, Tencel, flax linen, Alpaca yarn

-Domestic suppliers whenever possible

-Third-party certifications (Bluesign, Oeko-Tex) for low-impact and safe dye practices when available

-Manufacturing in their own factory or a nearby factory in LA

-Purchase of renewable energy credits for factory operations (100% wind)

-Lower-impact, 100% recycled-content & recyclable packaging

-Carbon neutral shipping program

-Lower-impact garment care labels and recommendations

-End-of-life recycling service

The entire report was super interesting to us sustainability junkies but if you only have time to peruse one section we found the fiber section particularly eye-opening. The report states “up to two-thirds of the sustainability impact of fashion happens at the raw materials stage - before the clothes have actually been made. Fiber selection also affects how you’re gonna wash the garment, and potentially recycle it one day - both important factors to consider when it comes to the environmental impact.” We learned they categorize fabrics into 5 categories, best to worst, starting with “Allstars" and ending with “Eww, never” and by the end of this year 75% of their products will be made with the top 2 tiers of fabrics.

What was especially inspiring to us was learning about their offset strategy or “venmo for the earth” as they cleverly referred to it. They actually track of all the CO2 emissions, water and waste they cause during production (even though it is SIGNIFICANTLY less in comparison to other clothing businesses) and offset the negative impact with a positive environmental impact via planting trees, purchasing landfill gas offsets, and restoring freshwater to dewatered rivers and wetlands in California. Someone’s going to fashion heaven!

Brand Focus: Vionnet

Companies Doing GoodViolet Gross
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The New York Times dropped a bomb on us earlier this month regarding the UN’s conclusion on the current climate change crisis. There was one key takeaway from the article, the change starts with YOU. As individuals, we need to step-up by making personal changes on how we consume so we avoid catastrophic consequences. The Times article quoted Myles Allen, an Oxford University Climate Scientist saying “It’s telling us [UN Report] we need to reverse emissions trends and turn the world economy on a dime”. On a DIME. Not some time in the near future -- instantly. It's all hands on deck now. But imagine how much quicker change would emerge if businesses also stepped up. That’s why we were thrilled to learn Vionnet is actually shutting down operations in order to completely restructure the company with ecological and social responsibility at the core of all decision making. They are going completely dark for a season or two, a decision likely to lose the brand a ton of revenue, but they are doing this for the greater good. The kind of attitude, fingers crossed, more companies will adopt. A.S.A.P. This reboot by Vionnet also comes with plans to nix fashion week presentations, a bold move, but we hope people will rally behind this heritage brand and support the positive changes they are making on behalf of the fashion industry. We certainly can’t wait to see these changes unfold.

The Only Thing Michael Myers Cannot Survive is Climate Change.

PollutionViolet Gross
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Halloween is a few weeks away, putting us on our guard for all the scary movies, masks, and haunted houses. We were all but prepared for the requisite boogie boogie boo's, until we were scared shitless by something that is no trick (or treat) — the latest UN report.

According to the report published on Monday, thanks to climate change, we should expect worsening food shortages, wildfires and a mass die off of coral reef by 2040. Do you know what else is supposed to happen by 2040? A baby born today will graduate college that year. IT'S NOT FAR OFF. The majority of the population will witness this crisis.

What makes 2040 "Day 0" of climate change? That’s when the atmosphere will warm up by 2.7 degrees Fahrenheit if greenhouse gas emissions continue at today’s rate. And why is 2.7 degrees such a meaningful number? Scientists had previously thought that inundating coastlines, intensifying droughts and poverty would turn into a major issue when the atmospheric temperature increased by 3.6 degrees, but they recently learned it’s happening more rapidly. They now believe that a 2.7 degree change is the scary number, and we are already half way to meeting that increase. This is when we recite, WTF?

To avoid serious damage, we need to drastically change the world economy in just a few short years. And while economists think it’s possible, many think it’s unlikely. Dare to guess why? Politics. Yup, politics may be the reason a new born doesn’t graduate from college. We rarely muddle around in politics because we believe in people having their own opinions and values, but some things should not be up for debate, and killing our planet is certainly one of them. We cannot think of a better opportunity to remind you to VOTE. Mid-terms are next month, and it is more crucial than ever. The fact that the United States, the worlds largest economy and second largest greenhouse gas emitter, is still threatening to pull out of the Paris Climate Agreement (one of few countries that is not committed) is shameful.

Why do we at Tulerie care so much about greenhouse gas emissions? We’re shared our feelings when fires were raging at Burberry, but to remind you it’s because the fashion industry produces as much greenhouse gas emissions as the entire country of Russia. Do you know how big Russia is? As the worlds largest country, it takes up 12.5% of the Earth’s land mass. The dominant reason methane emissions are out of control in the fashion industry is because of the way raw materials are sourced. So we’re going to give our friends at Re/Done, Adidas, Eileen Fisher and Summersalt another round of applause.

We’re hoping the time you would have wasted at Zara shopping for a generic dress to wear to that party next week will now be spent browsing dresses you can borrow. If we can’t sway you, maybe the 91 scientists across 40 countries, who analyzed more than 6,000 scientific studies, can fully convince you to start changing your behavior when they say "avoiding the damage requires transforming the world economy at a speed and scale that has no documented historic precedent.”

Sorry Michael Myers, but you’re weak sauce compared to this.

Brand Focus: thredUp + Reformation

Violet Gross

We are learning together that the fashion industry has environmental drawbacks. We understand most of those drawbacks occur during the manufacturing stage but still damage is caused by the consumer — mainly because we are uninformed about the consequences of the throw away culture we’ve cultivated. A slowly turning ship.

Thankfully, with the advent of sexy e-comm resale sites, the stigma of shopping used clothing is almost shattered. Friends now brag about their ‘Real Real’ finds and how much money they made from thredUP. Needless to say, we are in full support of resale sites as we share a core mission regarding the fashion vs. the environment crisis — increasing clothing utilization.

So with that, we were excited to see two brands we love, resale site thredUp and sustainable fashion brand Reformation, partner to put muscle behind a brilliant circularity strategy.

The innovative program provides a new incentive for customers who send their unwanted garments to thredUp. Participants will receive a Reformation gift card equal to the value of the exchanged goods. You get to give that dress you’re tired of a new home while feeling good about purchasing it’s replacement (not that you have to at Reformation). This partnership is giving both the customer and the brand an avenue to participate in circularity. Although thredUP plans to add additional brands to this program, we can’t help but fan over the fact Reformation stepped up first.

According to thredUP, more than one-third of women wear an item less than five times before tossing it — not surprising to us at all. It’s facts like this that catapulted the concept of Tulerie. ThredUp’s analytics further proved that buying a used clothing item reduces its environmental impact by 73%, simply due to extending its useful life. One point for clothing utilization, and 2 points for both thredUp and Reformation for creating another platform to do so.