Like Venmo, for the Earth

Violet Gross

Did you know every quarter Reformation produces a Sustainability Report? Well they do and it’s like candy to us! Knowledge is power right! It’s a scary yet fascinating time for this industry and we are learning together about the detrimental impacts of fashion on our environment (except Stella McCartney and those 90 scientist who drafted the UN Report, they seem to have been well above the curve).

From our POV, Reformation’s entire ethos is creating a fashionable brand that is operating better than average and informing their customers why their is a need for better than average. In this report they are upfront about the fact they don’t have control over everything and their is a host of influential information they’re still not privy to but they remain focused on positively impacting the process where they can. Reformation's smaller carbon footprint comes from focusing on material waste, something they have control over, through product manufacturing and and packaging.

So what practices make Reformation different?

-Lower-impact fabrics like vintage, deadstock, Tencel, flax linen, Alpaca yarn

-Domestic suppliers whenever possible

-Third-party certifications (Bluesign, Oeko-Tex) for low-impact and safe dye practices when available

-Manufacturing in their own factory or a nearby factory in LA

-Purchase of renewable energy credits for factory operations (100% wind)

-Lower-impact, 100% recycled-content & recyclable packaging

-Carbon neutral shipping program

-Lower-impact garment care labels and recommendations

-End-of-life recycling service

The entire report was super interesting to us sustainability junkies but if you only have time to peruse one section we found the fiber section particularly eye-opening. The report states “up to two-thirds of the sustainability impact of fashion happens at the raw materials stage - before the clothes have actually been made. Fiber selection also affects how you’re gonna wash the garment, and potentially recycle it one day - both important factors to consider when it comes to the environmental impact.” We learned they categorize fabrics into 5 categories, best to worst, starting with “Allstars" and ending with “Eww, never” and by the end of this year 75% of their products will be made with the top 2 tiers of fabrics.

What was especially inspiring to us was learning about their offset strategy or “venmo for the earth” as they cleverly referred to it. They actually track of all the CO2 emissions, water and waste they cause during production (even though it is SIGNIFICANTLY less in comparison to other clothing businesses) and offset the negative impact with a positive environmental impact via planting trees, purchasing landfill gas offsets, and restoring freshwater to dewatered rivers and wetlands in California. Someone’s going to fashion heaven!

Brand Focus: Vionnet

Companies Doing GoodViolet Gross

The New York Times dropped a bomb on us earlier this month regarding the UN’s conclusion on the current climate change crisis. There was one key takeaway from the article, the change starts with YOU. As individuals, we need to step-up by making personal changes on how we consume so we avoid catastrophic consequences. The Times article quoted Myles Allen, an Oxford University Climate Scientist saying “It’s telling us [UN Report] we need to reverse emissions trends and turn the world economy on a dime”. On a DIME. Not some time in the near future -- instantly. It's all hands on deck now. But imagine how much quicker change would emerge if businesses also stepped up. That’s why we were thrilled to learn Vionnet is actually shutting down operations in order to completely restructure the company with ecological and social responsibility at the core of all decision making. They are going completely dark for a season or two, a decision likely to lose the brand a ton of revenue, but they are doing this for the greater good. The kind of attitude, fingers crossed, more companies will adopt. A.S.A.P. This reboot by Vionnet also comes with plans to nix fashion week presentations, a bold move, but we hope people will rally behind this heritage brand and support the positive changes they are making on behalf of the fashion industry. We certainly can’t wait to see these changes unfold.

The Only Thing Michael Myers Cannot Survive is Climate Change.

PollutionViolet Gross
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Halloween is a few weeks away, putting us on our guard for all the scary movies, masks, and haunted houses. We were all but prepared for the requisite boogie boogie boo's, until we were scared shitless by something that is no trick (or treat) — the latest UN report.

According to the report published on Monday, thanks to climate change, we should expect worsening food shortages, wildfires and a mass die off of coral reef by 2040. Do you know what else is supposed to happen by 2040? A baby born today will graduate college that year. IT'S NOT FAR OFF. The majority of the population will witness this crisis.

What makes 2040 "Day 0" of climate change? That’s when the atmosphere will warm up by 2.7 degrees Fahrenheit if greenhouse gas emissions continue at today’s rate. And why is 2.7 degrees such a meaningful number? Scientists had previously thought that inundating coastlines, intensifying droughts and poverty would turn into a major issue when the atmospheric temperature increased by 3.6 degrees, but they recently learned it’s happening more rapidly. They now believe that a 2.7 degree change is the scary number, and we are already half way to meeting that increase. This is when we recite, WTF?

To avoid serious damage, we need to drastically change the world economy in just a few short years. And while economists think it’s possible, many think it’s unlikely. Dare to guess why? Politics. Yup, politics may be the reason a new born doesn’t graduate from college. We rarely muddle around in politics because we believe in people having their own opinions and values, but some things should not be up for debate, and killing our planet is certainly one of them. We cannot think of a better opportunity to remind you to VOTE. Mid-terms are next month, and it is more crucial than ever. The fact that the United States, the worlds largest economy and second largest greenhouse gas emitter, is still threatening to pull out of the Paris Climate Agreement (one of few countries that is not committed) is shameful.

Why do we at Tulerie care so much about greenhouse gas emissions? We’re shared our feelings when fires were raging at Burberry, but to remind you it’s because the fashion industry produces as much greenhouse gas emissions as the entire country of Russia. Do you know how big Russia is? As the worlds largest country, it takes up 12.5% of the Earth’s land mass. The dominant reason methane emissions are out of control in the fashion industry is because of the way raw materials are sourced. So we’re going to give our friends at Re/Done, Adidas, Eileen Fisher and Summersalt another round of applause.

We’re hoping the time you would have wasted at Zara shopping for a generic dress to wear to that party next week will now be spent browsing dresses you can borrow. If we can’t sway you, maybe the 91 scientists across 40 countries, who analyzed more than 6,000 scientific studies, can fully convince you to start changing your behavior when they say "avoiding the damage requires transforming the world economy at a speed and scale that has no documented historic precedent.”

Sorry Michael Myers, but you’re weak sauce compared to this.

Brand Focus: thredUp + Reformation

Violet Gross

We are learning together that the fashion industry has environmental drawbacks. We understand most of those drawbacks occur during the manufacturing stage but still damage is caused by the consumer — mainly because we are uninformed about the consequences of the throw away culture we’ve cultivated. A slowly turning ship.

Thankfully, with the advent of sexy e-comm resale sites, the stigma of shopping used clothing is almost shattered. Friends now brag about their ‘Real Real’ finds and how much money they made from thredUP. Needless to say, we are in full support of resale sites as we share a core mission regarding the fashion vs. the environment crisis — increasing clothing utilization.

So with that, we were excited to see two brands we love, resale site thredUp and sustainable fashion brand Reformation, partner to put muscle behind a brilliant circularity strategy.

The innovative program provides a new incentive for customers who send their unwanted garments to thredUp. Participants will receive a Reformation gift card equal to the value of the exchanged goods. You get to give that dress you’re tired of a new home while feeling good about purchasing it’s replacement (not that you have to at Reformation). This partnership is giving both the customer and the brand an avenue to participate in circularity. Although thredUP plans to add additional brands to this program, we can’t help but fan over the fact Reformation stepped up first.

According to thredUP, more than one-third of women wear an item less than five times before tossing it — not surprising to us at all. It’s facts like this that catapulted the concept of Tulerie. ThredUp’s analytics further proved that buying a used clothing item reduces its environmental impact by 73%, simply due to extending its useful life. One point for clothing utilization, and 2 points for both thredUp and Reformation for creating another platform to do so.

Can I borrow that?

Violet Gross
Anna Wintour_Zebra_Tulerie.JPEG

Fashion Month is well under way. Each new season brings fresh takes on timeless pieces, the ones you feel good about investing in and keep for a decade and conversely, the quick-wear-it-before-it’s-over trendy peices. At this point with the 100 plus shows and presentations already behind us we have a defined sense of the trends on the horizon for spring.

It always amazes us how the fashion world seems to incoherently sync up on so many trends. Imagine if designers were secretly meeting twice a year deciding, “oh yes we’re all bringing back puff sleeves next season”.

As fun as it is to see the trends unfold, we know we won’t be buying into all of them — so here is a download of the ones we have our eye on but we don’t love them enough to buy at the designer level (and you certainly won’t find us fishing around Zara or Topshop to get them.) So what’s the solution? The Tulerie community has vast and unique style, so we’re planning to borrow these trends from one of the Tulerie girls who plan to make them a statement in their closet!

Embellishments. Embellishments seem to always be in rotation but designers find a way of updating this trend by fusing it with more current silhouettes. As much as we would like to invest in this constantly circulating trend, our old pieces never feel quite right when the trend comes back on the scene. We liked embellished looks from Bluemarine, Cavalli, Prada, Brock and Rodarte.

Fishnet. We saw a lot of variation of net style garments on the runway in the form of dresses, tops, skirts, hats and accessories. Dresses made from what resembles a real fisherman’s net to more boho interpretations like crochet and macrame. We’re digging the Dolce & Gabbana dress for us, as it’s not head-to-toe netting like looks we saw from Gypsy Sport, Ferragamo, and JW Anderson.

Polka Dot. We adore polka dots and we’re probably more excited about this trend than most, but for us, it’s not a classic enough print like a stripe — so we’ll be borrowing it. The key difference in the Spring 2019 polka dot is it’s a lot larger of a dot! As 80’s babies, this is too reminiscent of a trend we already wore. Max Mara, Herrera, and Dolce did the larger polka dot well. If we were to invest in this trend we would consider prints with a smaller polk dot, like we saw at Prada and Gabriella Hearst. But that’s just us!

Mix & Match Prints. Like quilts made by a sweet grandmother, but chicer. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder…we are not beholding this trend. Mis-match is just not our thing, but we know ton’s of women who love eclectic, colorful prints and consider a black dress a fashion crime — this is their moment. We liked the way Marni, Versace, Herrera and Prabal Gurung pulled it off.

Unorthodox Animal Prints. Lions, and tigers, and bears, OH MY! It seems no animal print is off limits for Spring 2019. Zebra and snake were stand-outs but tiger definitely is the animal de jour. In last weeks blog about what to invest in, we discussed animal print but we reserve that for the classic cheetah print and the traditional color way. We saw variations of unorthodox animal prints from Roberto Cavalli, Tod’s, Burberry and during pre-spring at Chloé and Rochas.

Tie-Dye. Again, we are children of the 80’s so this is a nostalgic trend and one we wore HARD —when we were 7! We may dip a toe into this trend next season and if we do it’s likely we’ll be borrowing it from a millennial who has no idea this trend ever existed. We saw tie-dye from R13, John Elliott, Prabal Gurung, and Eckhaus Latta.

Make your list now on what you’ll be investing in versus borrowing. And don’t forget to let us know what you’ll be searching for on Tulerie.